Everyone who drives a vehicle knows how crucial the drive axles are. They take all the torque from your car’s engine and make sure it reaches the wheels accurately. First, you need to gather your tools. I usually grab a jack, jack stands, wrenches of various sizes (10mm to 22mm), and an axle nut socket. Trust me, without these, it’s close to impossible to work efficiently. On average, you can expect to spend around $50 to $200 on these tools if you don't already have them lying around. The good news? Most of these will last you a long time and can be used for other maintenance tasks as well.
Make sure you park your car on a flat surface. I once made the mistake of working on a slight incline and ended up spending extra hours just trying to get the vehicle stable. Use the jack to lift the car and place the jack stands under the car for additional safety. According to a drive axles expert, skipping these initial steps can cost you an arm and a leg if the car falls. Remember, safety first.
The next task is removing the wheels. This part is fairly straightforward. Use the wrench to loosen the lug nuts and take off the tire. Have you ever wondered why mechanics often do this part so quickly? It’s because they’ve honed their skills over years. In a typical garage, this step takes less than 2 minutes, but at home, you should give yourself around 10 minutes just to make sure you’re doing it right.
Now comes the tricky part—removing the axle nut. Different cars have different axle nut sizes, but generally, you’ll need a socket that’s around 32mm to 36mm. Unlike other bolts, these are usually torqued down to extremely high specifications, often upwards of 150 lb-ft. That’s quite a bit of grunt required to get it loose. Here's a pro tip: If it doesn’t budge, try a penetrating oil to help loosen it up. Companies like WD-40 produce excellent penetration oils that work wonders.
With the axle nut removed, the next step is to disconnect the lower ball joint. I use a ball joint separator for this task; it makes the process much easier. You must take your time to pry the control arm away from the steering knuckle. Sometimes, a good whack with a hammer does the job. Just be careful not to damage any other components while doing so. According to industry standards, a damaged ball joint can affect your vehicle's alignment and handling, making your car unsafe to drive.
The axle should start to slide out of the wheel hub at this point. If it seems stuck, gentle persuasion with a hammer can help. Do not hit the threads directly; damage to the threads can make reassembly almost impossible. Once free, you’ll need to maneuver it out carefully. I recommend having a buddy help at this stage, as axles can be surprisingly heavy and cumbersome. A practical tip from mechanics: Always check the CV joints while the axle is out. Professionals often find that worn CV joints are a common issue that goes unnoticed.
It's essential to inspect the new axle before installation. Compare its length and spline count with the old one. There was a time when I didn’t do this and ended up with an axle that just didn’t fit. Save yourself the trouble and make sure everything matches. Small discrepancies, such as a 1mm difference in length or spline count, can prevent proper installation and lead to vehicle malfunction.
Reinstallation is quite literally the reverse of removal. Start by inserting the new axle into the transmission carefully. You’ll want to make sure it’s seated properly to avoid any future issues. In most cases, you’ll feel it click into place. When you’re sure it’s secure, you can move on to guiding the other end back into the wheel hub. Here's a fun fact: Many auto repair shops record that improper installation is among the top reasons for axle failure.
Reconnect the ball joint and then tighten the axle nut. Use a torque wrench to ensure you’re applying the correct amount of force. Most manufacturers specify between 150 lb-ft and 200 lb-ft, but always check your vehicle’s manual for the precise number. I can’t stress enough the importance of following the specified torque settings. Failure to do so can lead to the nut either being too loose (causing wobbling) or too tight (causing stress and potential failure of the axle).
Replace the wheel, tighten the lug nuts, and lower the car back to the ground. Don’t forget to torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specifications, usually between 80 and 100 lb-ft. Properly torquing the lug nuts ensures the wheel stays attached firmly and provides even distribution of the load.
Now, take your car for a test drive. Pay attention to any unusual sounds or vibrations. It’s crucial to notice these early on. If everything feels smooth and you don’t hear any clicking or grinding noises, congratulations! You’ve successfully serviced your drive axles. This entire process typically takes about 2 to 3 hours for a first-timer, but with practice, you can get it down to around 1.5 hours. Considering that some repair shops charge upwards of $300 for this service, doing it yourself can save you a significant amount of money.